The routes

Climbing routes

14
Routes in archive
A piede libero
A piede libero - Corna delle Quattro Matte
7c+
Forged from the ground-up over three summers, with the use of bolts and without fixed ropes (a bivy was made beneath the summit). The climbing during the first ascent was done free between one bolt and the next (where we...
Alien
Alien - Presolana Centrale
7a+
Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties...
Cojote
Cojote - Vadena / Pareti di Monticolo
7a
Cojote follows a series of beautiful cracks for 4 pitches (100m) and is broken only by a series of comfortable and airy belay ledges. While the climbing is never more difficult than 7a max, according to Florian Riegler it is...
Dall'alba al tramonto
Dall'alba al tramonto - Presolana Centrale
6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II
Demanding route that requires experience in placing natural pro. During the first repeat four bolts were added to protect the exposed sections.
Fessura del Caret
Fessura del Caret - Val Genova
7c/8a
Difficult crack climb in Val di Genova within the Adamello - Brenta Natural Park.In order to climb Fessura del Caret you have to be a good all-rounder on granite, and be good at both slabs and hand jams. The roof,...
Gli svizzeri di qua
Gli svizzeri di qua - Parete Mora
7b
Short modern sports route up excellent weathered limestone, past runnels and small pockets. Established ground-up over two days, the route offers technical climbing through an overhang on pitch 1, followed by technical slab climbing on the remaining pitches. The 10mm bolts...
I sogni di Baku
I sogni di Baku - Corno Gioià
TD+ VII max. R2+/III
Opened ground-up, the new route I sogni di Baku  - Baku's dreams - is a demanding climb in a grandiose and solitary setting. The route breaches the compact granite slabs and vertical cracked corners to reach the red summit tower.Despite...
Il colpo di coda
Il colpo di coda - Presolana
7a+, S3 I
Demanding rock climb up excellent rock, with 9 stainless steel bolts up the pitches + bolts at the belays with abseil rings. The first bolt is located at circa 30m height and tied off with an orange sling.
La Scala del Cielo
La Scala del Cielo - Monte Scale - Torri di Fraele
5c
Pleasant easy route up weathered rock that climbs compact slabs, corners and short walls. Set in a unique and impressive ambient, this route has been equipped and carefully cleaned and is ideal for beginners.
Mille splendidi soli
Mille splendidi soli - Cima di Poia (Coster di destra)
TD+ 7a max, S2/III
Mille Splendidi Soli - A thousand splendid suns - ascends the SSE Face Coster di Destra di Cima Poia. Established ground-up, it breaches a series of slabs up excellent granite. The starting slabs and corners lead to the central slabs,...
Mutandenbaum
Mutandenbaum - Parete Mora
6c+
Short alpine outing up excellent weathered limestene past runnels and small pockets. Technical, smooth slab climbing.
Nido di rondine
Nido di rondine - Scoglio di Boazzo
7a
Nido di Rondine is a great modern outing on excellent rock. Varied and satisfying climbing, mainly on a rough slab with featured knobs, but also some corner/crack sections. In 2018 Nicola Castagna and Francesco Salvaterra established (by abseil) a 15m variation...
Presolana Holiday
Presolana Holiday - Presolana
7c+
A great climb established ground-up by Angelo Contessi and Leo Gheza between the routes Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley.
Wasserläufer
Wasserläufer

Wasserläufer is a pleasant route in a great ambient; you often climb just a stone’s throw from the Margarethenbach waterfall, which shouldn’t be underestimated. The route was established ground-up with bolts. A big thank you to the Hochtourengruppe Lana for paying...


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